xün xaari সোণ শাৰী

Muga | Muga Ghicha | Tai Khampti boota | Natural dyed Eri silk | Tulsi beads | May be seen as an accompaniment with MR21112 shawl
Spoken for

“Hidden in the glorious wildness like unmined gold”, Muga makes a journey from the wild into the skilled hands of spinners of Assam. Filaments of gold are extracted from the reeled cocoons simultaneously being twisted into plied yarn.

Muga is the rarest known wild silk in the world. The ones who has experienced pure Muga will never fail to identify pure from among the others, because that golden hue of Muga is incomparable to any other, giving it a distinct identity. It is rightly expressed as thread of gold by many poets of Assam, so I choose to call this shawl xün. When Muga is getting hand spun and woven, it is as if the whole house of mud walls begins to glisten like gold. I have seen the face of weavers glow too.

What is so magical about Muga? What makes it so revered as a silk? What makes it glow in its original sheen even after decades of use? What gives it that fragrance that goes beyond time?

Perhaps, the silkworms that make this silk are in tune with nature. In the wild, upon the trees, the silkworms in their quietness, make their cocoons. No noise. No dirt. No pollution. With only passerby birds as impended danger, their lifecycle with nature is intimate.

This intimacy perhaps keeps the secret of the ethereal nature of this silk.

With Muga being so special, I always find Ghicha of Muga to be a perfect companion with its textured surface. As smooth the Muga, that textured is Muga Ghicha. This marriage of two is a delight to bind together revealing the under layers of many potentialities of Muga.

Spinners from Gogamukh of upper Assam hand spun muga yarn. This region is known for its quality yarn. So I decided to carry it in my back pack to Arunachal Pradesh so that Tai Khampti weavers could interweave some magic with their weaving skills.

This delightful combination of Muga, Muga Ghicha and weaves from Tai Khampti tribe forms the core of the Sari. The borders that binds this subtlety is Eri Silk, Indigo dyed, hand spun without charkha, and hand woven on throw shuttle loom of Assam.

To a collector’s heart this sari is beyond time and age. It is a Gold Sari! It is Xün Xaari!

The blouse fabric for this Sari is Lac dyed Eri silk handspun yarn woven into a beautiful textured weave on throw shuttle loom.

“All that is gold does not glitter;
not all those who wander are lost;
the old that is strong does not wither;
deep roots are not reached by the frost..”
― J.R.R. Tolkien

Blouse fabric

Buyer Empowerments

Wearable textile made with ancient spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques of Assam, that are slowly being abandoned in modern context. Hope of rejuvenation that a textile that has lasted the test of thousand of years, can still enthral the makers and wearer’s senses. Yarn of Assam woven in Arunachal Pradesh bringing out the textile prowess of two different communities.
One of a kind wearable heirloom that collages subtle softness of Eri silk with the golden glow of Muga and Muga Ghicha. Embellished with Tulsi beads, this sari offers sacred regality to heart.
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold.
Sturdy, long-lasting- “lifelong” in their words, making it a generational heirloom. Texture will grow with time.
Dry clean recommended. “Made to not be fragile”. Seasonal “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring.
Sari is ready to wear. All saris come with blouse fabric(s). No fall/ beading required. The blouse used in photoshoot is for representation only and may not be the same blouse available with the sari. The blouse fabric given with the sari will be more in alignment with the aesthetics intended.
100% natural, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones. The ruggedness will grow gentle with time.
Elegant, Celebratory, Heriloom, Grounding
Well-being Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable, Climate conscious
Weaving of Muga done under supervision of Nang Dharmavati from Arunachal Pradesh, following the creative guidelines from mora.
Hand spun Muga yarn from Gogamukh, Assam.
Eri silk is made with the supervision of Narmohan Das.
Stitching by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.

Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN