xün সোণ

Muga | Muga Ghicha | Tai Khampti boota | Natural dyed Eri silk | Tulsi beads | May be seen as an accompaniment with MR21113 sari
Spoken for

Muga is the rarest known wild silk in the world. The ones who has experienced pure Muga will never fail to identify pure from among the others, because that golden hue of Muga is incomparable to any other, giving it a distinct identity. It is rightly expressed as thread of gold by many poets of Assam, so I choose to call this shawl xün. When Muga is getting hand spun and woven, it is as if the whole house of mud walls begins to glisten like gold. I have seen the face of weavers glow too.

What is so magical about Muga? What makes it so revered as a silk? What makes it glow in its original sheen even after decades of use? What gives it that fragrance that goes beyond time?

Perhaps, the silkworms that make this silk are in tune with nature. In the wild, upon the trees, the silkworms in their quietness, make their cocoons. No noise. No dirt. No pollution. With only passerby birds as impended danger, their lifecycle with nature is intimate.

This intimacy perhaps keeps the secret of the ethereal nature of this silk.

With Muga being so special, I always find Ghicha of Muga to be a perfect companion with its textured surface. As smooth the Muga, that textured the Ghicha. This marriage of two is a delight to bind together revealing the under layers of many potentialities of Muga.

Spinners from Gogamukh of upper Assam hand spun this muga yarn. This region is known for its quality of Muga. So I decided to carry it in my back pack to Arunachal Pradesh so that Tai Khampti tribe weavers could interweave some magic with their weaving skills.

This delightful combination of Muga, Muga Ghicha and weaves from Tai Khampti tribe forms one end of the shawl.

The other end that binds this subtlety is Eri Silk, lac dyed, hand spun without charkha, and hand woven on throw shuttle loom of Assam.

To a collector’s heart this shawl is beyond time and age. It is Gold! It is Xün!

Buyer Empowerments

Wearable textile made with ancient spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques, that are slowly being abandoned in modern context. Hope of rejuvenation that a textile that has lasted the test of thousand of years, can still enthral the makers and wearer’s senses. Yarn of Assam woven in Arunachal Pradesh bringing out the textile prowess of two different communities.
One of a kind wearable heirloom that collages subtle softness of Eri silk with the golden glow of Muga and Muga Ghicha. Embellished with Tulsi beads, this shawl offers regality to heart.
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. More fit for cool to cold days.
Sturdy, long-lasting- “lifelong” in their words, making it a generational heirloom. Texture will grow with time.
Dry clean recommended. “Made to not be fragile”. Seasonal “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring.
Ready to wear
100% natural, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature.
Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones.
The ruggedness will grow gentle with time.
The combined aspects of the shawl
Made in rural household. Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle.
Direct connect with artisan.
Reverse pyramid model- Fair benefit to all makers and facilitators.
No bargaining with artisans.
Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment made with need-greed, human-nature balance.
Made with intentional non-injury.
Slow production- slow movement product.
Well-being Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable, Climate conscious
Weaving of Muga done under supervision of Nang Dharmavati
from Arunachal Pradesh, following the creative guidelines from mora.
Hand spun Muga yarn from Gogamukh, Assam.
Eri silk is made under the supervision of Narmohan Das,
with creative guidelines from Mora.
Stitching by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.

Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN