Galuk & Gale
Adi Padam indigenous weaves from Arunachal Pradesh
with Eri silk of Assam woven into a narrow shawl
This shawl has two sides. One side is Adi Padam indigenous weaves bordered with Matka silk. The other side is hand spun, hand woven, natural dyed Eri silk.
I named this textile Galuk & Gale, so that while seeing this as a shawl, we never forget to visualise these weaves and motifs in their original indigenous form. And to always remember that they have been adapted to a shawl as a closest akin to the origins to suit the modern context while also celebrating the indigenous weave.
Galuk is the upper garment and Gale is the lower wrap around of Adi Padam tribe who are one of the main sub-tribes of Abotani of Arunachal Pradesh. This particular shawl is an adaptation of their traditional Gale where the white intricate vertical band falls on the back side at the centre of the wrap. This versatile weave looks suitable as a wrap-around as well as in the form of a shawl. These white bands hold splashes of colour reflecting the personal sense of creative of the weaver. Seemingly, simple from far, these bands reveal much intricacy on closer look, and is a textile craft hardly achievable by other tribes not proficient in Adi Padam weaving.
Adi Padam believed that their earliest ancestor grandmother learnt the art of weaving in her dream. Since, then Adi Padam relate their ethnic identity with the weave motifs, especially those in the Gale. These textile’s documents their warrior history as a”hill-top” tribe as well as their topography, things and sights from everyday life.
Adi textiles are known for their geometric stripes and less complex form that highlights the beautiful bands most efficiently. The stripes are symbolic of their virtue of high discipline and straight forward thinking. They weave on back strap looms, called Gekong-Galong among the Adi community. And carried the art of weaving as an inheritance through their rich ancestry.
Eri silk aspect of shawl
Wearable textile made with ancient spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques. Home- reared, Hand spun, hand woven following indigenous methodology of Assam
Protein base. 100 % natural, Protein- based, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones.
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable.
Adi padam weaves aspect of shawl
Using indigenous textile motif and skill. Involves traditional back strap loom weaving of Nagaland
Cellulose base. Mill spun mercerised cotton yarn with Azo-free dyeing
The combined aspects of the shawl
One of a kind wearable textile that compliments textile heritage of neighbouring states Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. I find Eri silk and back strap loom textures an interesting harmony. The bold colours of the weaves are the weaver’s personal interpretation from the yarn we gave her. To balance the brightness of the weaves, I set it in a mellow contrast using natural Ivory and Turmeric blend of Eri silk.
Pleasant-not warm not cold. Should give warmth on a slightly nippy evening. Should also protect from blazing Sun.
Not fragile. Even if Eri Silk wears out after many years of use, you may want to keep the weaves of Adi Padam to re-purpose them.
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring. Occasional starch finish will lift up the form.
Made in rural household.
Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle.
In support of indigenous knowledge of Arunachal Pradesh and Assam.
No bargaining with artisans.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment.
Best wrapped around the shoulders over a dress or kurta. Has good gravity drape. Modern, statement piece that can double up as elegant formal or casual fun.
Eri Silk weaves made under supervision of Narmohan Das,
following the creative guidelines from mora, Assam.
Adi Padam weaving done under the supervision
of Komyir, Arunachal Pradesh.
Cotton yarn sourced from Salem, Tamil Nadu.
Matka Silk sourced from Khadi Gramodyog.
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Tassels by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.