Adi Minyong from Arunachal Pradesh | Triangle motif weave of back strap loom | Handspun natural dyed Eri silk of Assam
Spoken for

Working with Adi tribe was a matter of pure serendipity. It started as a chance encounter while passing from Pasighat to reach Roing. We had borrowed an old beaten down car from a friend to carry out cotton awareness drive in Arunachal Pradesh so weavers could feel encouraged to weave with natural yarns instead of synthetic ones. When we were just about to reach Pasighat, the car broke down with no hope to get spares parts or repair. I landed up staying in Pasighat for about a month where this amazing woman called Komyir Jamoh gathered many weavers in the neighbourhood from Adi Minyong, Adi Galo and Adi Padam communities to participate in cotton weaving design workshop.

Over days, Oboti Jamoh, Oity Megu, Tumrik Ete, Mumsi Tayeng, Osiri Tasung, Asahor Tayeng and Lucky Tayeng along with Komyir Jamoh and myself sat huddled together understanding what we could craft with the indigenous weaves of their community. Without cutting the designs for garment making, what could be the right homage to the ancestral weaves as product design? We ideated together and they suggested since there are two panels joined to make a single Gale, so why don’t we turn the single panel into a narrow shawl/ panel. These could be used as shawls or panels in Saris. I resonated with their idea. We further explored ideas on how to use “pore”- motif based panels in the weave.

Right after, each one went to the boot of the car that was overflowing with cotton yarn in 2/40 and 2/60 count. They chose their colours and they chose what they would make with it. Hundreds of hanks were picked in total. Over the next few years, under the supervision of Komyir, the weaves kept reaching Punjab in Komyir’s neatly compiled parcels. Because of encouraging remuneration, the work continued till the yarn was over without any obstruction. The supervision was also given regular honorarium towards her dedicated effort.

I use these weaves from time to time with the purpose of getting an opportunity to talk about these wonderful communities and their rich ancestry. Textiles is a medium to express. Bringing homage to their indigenous roots is the intention expressed through these textiles. The vision is to do design workshops with the youth of the community towards enabling them for craft based entrepreneurship.

Adi Minyong weaves are paid homage through the canvas of handspun natural dyes Eri silk made in Assam. For the base, soft gentle cotton based weave with self texture is identified to highlight tones of green in the weaves. At the Pallu, back strap loom woven triangle/ hill motifs panel is added. These motifs are woven by weavers of Nagaland. It is a generational heirloom to remember the roots of the indigenous communities who are the makers of the weaves of this textile.

Buyer Empowerments

Eri silk aspect of sari
Wearable textile made with ancient spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques. Home- reared, Hand spun, hand woven following indigenous methodology of Assam
Protein base. 100 % natural, Protein- based, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones.
Well-being properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable.
Adi Minyong and back strap loom weaves aspect of sari
Homage to indigenous textile motif and skill and traditional back strap loom weaving of Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland.
Cellulose base. Mill spun mercerised cotton yarn with Azo-free dyeing
The combined aspects of the sari
One of a kind wearable textile that compliments textile heritage of neighbouring states Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland. I find Eri silk and back strap loom textures an interesting harmony. The bold colours of the weaves are the weaver’s personal interpretation from the yarn she chose herself. My creative aspect lies in assembly of weavers’ interpretation of the weaves.
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. Should give warmth on a slightly nippy evening. Should also protect from blazing Sun.
Not fragile. Even if Eri Silk wears out after many years of use, you may want to keep the weaves of Adi Minyong to re-purpose them.
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring. Occasional starch finish will lift up the form.
Sari is ready to wear. All saris come with blouse fabric(s). No fall/ beading required. The blouse used in photoshoot is for representation only and may not be the same blouse available with the sari. The blouse fabric given with the sari will be more in alignment with the aesthetics intended.
Made in rural household: Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle.
In support of indigenous knowledge of Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Assam.
No bargaining with artisans. Collaborative design and technical specs model
Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment.
Awareness drive to choose natural yarns over easily available synthetic yarns.
Supports non-industrial tailoring skills.
Eri Silk weaves made with Narmohan Das, Assam.
Adi Minyong weaving done under the supervision of Komyir, Arunachal Pradesh.
Adi Minyong weave by Oity Megu, Pasighat, Arunachal Pradesh.
Back strap loom weaves made with North East Network, Chizami, Nagaland.
Cotton yarn sourced from Salem, Tamil Nadu.
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN