Viola

MR21131
Hemp | Handspun, handwoven, natural dyed Eri Silk in an asymmetrical patchwork.
Spoken for

 

Bringing together the deep purple of the violet, and the light purple of the wisteria, the depth of wine, the subtle laburnums in an asymmetrical patchwork of different geometry, shapes.

Viola!

Handspun handwoven hemp bridges the drape and the pallu. The yellow and ivory white horizontal broad panels form the base, pleats and drape of the sari. The yellow on the Eri silk will carry the fragrance of turmeric for a long time. One can distinctively smell the rawness of this turmeric from Meghalaya hills bordering the Kamrup district of Assam.

This Sari took me a deeper dive into asymmetry of patchwork. Together with my mother and our tailor Gurmel Singh we really enjoyed crafting this Sari and looking forward to see how you all like it.



About Eri silk and natural dyeing:

1) Home reared Eri silkworms make their cocoons. The rearer collects those cocoons and hands them over to the yarn spinner.

2) The yarn spinner boils (degumming), washes, flattens the cocoons into fibre cakes. The fibre cakes are then mounted on a light wood stick to start the hand spinning of this fibre based silk. No charkha, no mechanised equipment, just a gentle dance of hands twisting the yarn while pulling them from their condensed form in the cocoon. A stone weight spindle keeps turning as the spinner keeps twisting the fibre. When sufficient amount of yarn has been spun, it is rolled into hanks and sent to the weaver.

3) Weaving is primarily woman’s domain in Assam, where the traditional throw shuttle looms are mounted between four pillars dug solid into the flat mud ground. Eri silk’s hand spun fibre involves an intricate warping process. This delicately slub yarn is more or less irregular in size leading to a completely manual process of heddle-making and yarn joining. At no point, the weaver can loose their attention for gentleness while weaving this yarn.

If the yarn is dyed first then the woven fabric is ready at this stage. If the fabric is to be dyed directly, then after weaving, fabric is ready to be sent for the next stage that is dyeing.

4) Eri Silk being a protein fibre absorbs most natural dyes. For this sari, we have used turmeric, lac and indigo as main dye sources Once the dye is ready, the fabric is dipped in the vat. Depending upon the number of dips, the shades of dye can vary from lightest to deepest.

Handspun, handwoven, natural dyed Eri silk is now ready.

Blouse fabric

Buyer Empowerments

Intrinsic
Value
Wearable textile made with traditional spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques, that bring together the legacy of Eri silk of Assam.
Creative
Aspect
One of a kind wearable heirloom that brings together many achievable colours of purple tones from all natural sources. The vibrancy radiated through a clever use of asymmetrical patchwork is to communicate that nothing shines better than nature! Stripes, boxes, rectangles of all colours of purple fit into each other like each other’s missing pieces! Many textures reveal through each different interaction with natural dye source. How soft or how coarse the texture appears is directly proportional to its hand spinning skill as well as relationship with nature’s alchemy!
Heft-Feel
Till drape, sari is light. At Pallu, the Sari is moderate
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant. Not warm not cold. Okay for summers!
Longevity
Long-lasting making it a generational heirloom. Texture will grow with time. The shades of natural dye will go through natural alterations as anything made with nature should.
Care
Dry clean recommended. “Made to not be fragile”. Seasonal “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring.
State
Sari is ready to wear. All saris come with blouse fabric(s). No fall/ beading required. The blouse used in photoshoot is for representation only and may not be the same blouse available with the sari. The blouse fabric given with the sari will be more in alignment with the aesthetics intended.
Soul
100% natural, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones. The shades will originally change with passage of time adding years to its organic life.
Drape
Elegant, up-lifting, hugging-body texture.
Concerns
Addressed
Made in rural household. Solidarity with Eri Silk that is made in Assam. Standing up for the artisans of Assam who are losing opportunities to the commercial-privileged Eri silk producers of mainland India.
Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. Direct connect with artisan.
Reverse pyramid model- Fair benefit to all makers and facilitators. No bargaining with artisans. 
Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment made with need-greed, human-nature balance.Made with intentional non-injury. Slow production- slow movement product. 
Made less, made ethically.
Has gone through no chemical processing. 
Has gone through no machinery or mechanised processing units.
Well-being Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable, Climate conscious
Patchwork management by Madhu, Bathinda, Punjab.
Eri silk made with Narmohan Das, with creative guidelines from Mora, Assam.
Stitching by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Disclaimer:
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN
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