Kes & Riha

MR21119
Kes motif and Riha motif weaves made by Tai Khampti artisans of Arunachal Pradesh
Spoken for

Tai khampti artisans wove an intricate striped weave pattern using the local motif called kes. While the input on the colours and dimensions came from me, the weaving supervision was carried out by a courageous woman named Nang Amlavati.

My association with Tai Khampti tribe began in 2012 when I expressed my wish to work with weaves of their community. She said she would involve her family- her own mother, mother-in-law and sisters-in-law to experiment making some weaves together. She mentioned that since they had not woven saris before, this would involve some trial and errors. Her family started to weave the more intricate patterns as the one seen in the Sari after about two years of trials and some compromised attempts. What started out among the family members in the year 2012, soon extended itself to about 30 homes of Namsai district.

In 2013, we brought about 500 kgs of cotton yarn to Arunachal Pradesh and took it as a drive to sensitise weavers towards using cotton over synthetic yarns for their indigenous weaves. Amla has championed the work we carried out with Tai Khampti weavers for more years than I could ever imagine. She began engaging untrained weavers, single mothers, and older women to engage in weaving plain, checks and striped fabrics. Such textiles are easily available at a very low cost in mainland India. Thereby, economically it was not a great decision. But at a deeper level, it brought wealth to a lot of homes in her neighbourhood. Rather than buying plain handloom fabrics from mainland, we began creating livelihood opportunities by weaving less intricate weaves as a medium of training new weavers and convenient income for trained ones. Some weavers took their payments part in money and part in yarn. They expressed wish to wear cotton themselves. This was the high point of this cotton drive with Tai Khampti tribe.

I have a clear memory of a walk in the lanes of Namsai. The mud roads and bamboo homes on both sides. I walked steadily with Amla while Amla was making me peep into each house. At a small strech of about 200 metres, each house on both sides of the road had a loom, and each loom had this cotton being woven. Many weavers were weaving at that very moment and sound still reverberates in my ears. That “thik thak thik thak thik thak”. That was a walk of what potentialities come alive with courage. One of those textiles is this Sari I have named after Amlavati.

There were times when my enthusiasm would experience a lull, though Amla kept the warp and weft going, weave after weave. It is for this that I will always hold a special bond with this family as well as Tai Khampti courage to take up what most would say no to.

Here is to Amlavati and her courage, a sari made with her family! All plains, textured, stripes, checks and intricate motifs in this Sari are achieved with the set of weavers trained with this initiative.

Blouse fabric

Buyer Empowerments

Intrinsic
Value
Indigenous textile product by Tai Khampti artisans. Involves traditional handloom weaving.
Creative
Aspect
One of a kind wearable textile. I enjoyed giving form to the textures of Tai Khampti weaves with gentle beadwork. The weave motifs highlight the triangular geometry of Kes motif in colours that explore possibilities beyond the conventional usage. The checks and stripes bring playful geometry with a creative use of colours.
Heft-Feel
Light
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant. Great for summers
Longevity
Not fragile
Care
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring.
State
Sari is ready to wear. All saris come with blouse fabric(s). No fall/ beading required. The blouse used in photoshoot is for representation only and may not be the same blouse available with the sari. The blouse fabric given with the sari will be more in alignment with the aesthetics intended.
Soul
Mill spun mercerised cotton yarn with Azo-free dyeing.
Drape
Casual, elegant, comfort modern drape with traditional weaves.
Concerns
Addressed
Grassroots production-
Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle.
Training of untrained weavers
Livelihood opportunity for amateur weavers, single mothers, older women who cannot farm.
Design handling leadership training, inventory keeping, costing and parcel handling training with Amla
Collaborative design and decision making
Awareness drive to choose natural yarns over easily available synthetic yarns.
Cotton yarn for Sari weaves from Salem, Tamil Nadu.
Weaves made with support from Nang Amlavati, Arunachal Pradesh.
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Disclaimer:
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2025
designed by: MIDTOAN
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