Murithai

MR21084
Indigenous Dimasa Weaves
with alternating kalis (pleats)
Dima Murithai is a folk song that urges the youth to learn weaving and other crafts by teasing them about their family who has yet not taught them these essential skills to live life.

Buma bo daoringya?
Mother doesn't know how to weave

Bupha bo horingya?
Father doesn't know the art of craft

Nana gajao maikhala bara ning thurinang?
When the beautiful baby is born, what will the baby sleep on?

Bari ni laisho daindada, uran-ing thurinang?
Will you cut the leaves of the banana plant around the fence of your house, and let the baby sleep on them?

When a new baby is born, or a male or female dies among Dimasas, it is mandatory for them to be wrapped in their traditional handwoven textiles. Each different textile holds a distinct cultural importance suited only to that textile. Dimasa culture is rich with motifs and their symbolism.

In this Kalidaar, I defined Dimasa weaves in the pallu of the dupatta. To keep the weaves as the highlight, I maintained the plainness of the rest of dupatta. To make the whole ensemble playful, each kali (panel) of this Kalidaar are in alternating crimson like hues made with cotton.

Blouse fabric is an intricately stitched short pattern patchwork (much like the one used in the photoshoot). These patchworks are a laborious piece of stitching art that Mora is coming to be identified with over the years.

Buyer Empowerments

Intrinsic
Value
Involves Indigenous traditional handloom weaving of Dimasa tribe of Assam. Also involves stitching technique of Haryana to bind the multi-pleated nalidaar in alternating fabrics.
Creative
Aspect
One of a kind wearable textile, collages techniques of different looms and yarn counts. The subtle colour harmony highlight the weaves and keep them the central part of the ensemble.
Helf-Feel
Moderate
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold
Longevity
Not fragile
Care
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun
State
Ready to wear
Soul
Cellulose based, mill spun mercerised cotton yarn with Azo-free dyeing woven into Dimasa weaves. Hand woven mangalgiri cotton forms rest of the kalidaar, the dye source of which is unknown.
Concerns
Addressed
Dimasa weaves- grassroots production. Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. Mangalgiri sourced from weaving and handloom clusters supporting livelihood opportunities.
Drape
Celebratory, Statement, bohemian, gypsy, flow-y, celebrating Indian classic form. Evokes swirling.
Dimasa weaves crafted under supervision of Aitryee.
Cotton yarn from Salem, Tamil Nadu.
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork by Param, Bhatinda, Punjab.
Song translation from a study done with Heinrich Böll Stiftung.
Disclaimer:
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2023
designed by: MIDTOAN
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