Muga Ghicha & Eri silk shawl (loi) by dyers and weavers of Assam and Nagaland

Rehmat is an heirloom loi. Loi is a large shawl. The one that embraces. This is also a gender-neutral shawl. The one that includes all. She is made intentionally, gently, with hands and care. She is natural, earthy, grounded, radiating with seasoned maturity. She makes decisions on behalf of many and her decisions are like a blessing, benefiting all. Her Rehmat is felt by all because she ponders for the well-being of others. She is quiet, nurturing and substantial. She is not easily misunderstood. She rarely leaves room for error. Not because she is perfect. But because she has perfected her Rehmat. 

Rehmat carries two aspects.

Side 1: The panelled part of the shawl is woven with hand-spun cow dung dyed eri silk dyed Eri silk yarn carried from Kamrup district, Assam, to the remote regions of Nagaland. Rehmat's central panels of back strap loom are hand stitched using traditional joineries, a typical feature of back strap loom textiles used to extend to the desired width. This is a three-panel joinery shawl, following the traces of a traditional loi width. 

Side 2: This side is crafted with Muga Ghicha. Muga Ghicha is first handspun and then woven on a throw shuttle loom. Not everyone can handle ghicha yarn, especially that of Muga. One needs to be seasoned in the craft. Weaving with the naturally spaced slub of Ghicha makes it a remarkable feat of craft, especially when it is handspun. Muga Ghicha’s gold hue and textured surface is merged with gentleness of cow dung dyed eri that is woven on a throw shuttle loom.

Rehmat is joined as a steadfast stitch of panels. Each panel highlights the intricate stitching involved in binding textiles of various textures and densities together. She is a one-of-a-kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated.

Param did the beadwork 

Gurmail, the tailor

Narmohan Dada, master Eri silk pioneer

Mumma, Madhu, stitching supervision

midtoan.com, the photographer

Designed by Ritika