Natural dyed handspun Eri silk woven on back strap loom of Nagaland

Akami is a complete handspun, handwoven, handstitched piece of textile heirloom. This textile has gone through no machine or industrial contact retaining the purity of the energy of this natural textile. Because this textile is made without deadlines or strict timelines, she has developed the warm heartedness of patience, endurance and being resilient. 

Akami does not boast. Yet her impressions are felt. Akami rarely seeks to express. Yet she has perfected her communication. Her stance on life is nuanced, methodical and skilful. Akami’s presence is of ease, yet substantial. 

She is woven on a back strap loom where the two woven panels are hand stitched using traditional joineries, a typical feature of back strap loom textiles used to extend the width. The edgings have also been done using Eri silk thread to bind the corners using embroidery stitch. Myrobalan & Lac Eri silk yarn was carried from Kamrup district, Assam, to the remote regions of Nagaland. During the pandemic lockdown, this project of weaving hand-spun Eri Silk on back strap looms was conceived as a livelihood opportunity while also creating a training module to weave a texture of yarn new to the local weavers. Weaving on the back strap loom lends a unique slub texture to Eri silk. To achieve that texture, hand-spun Eri had to be laced with rice starch and then warped onto back strap looms. We played with loose and tight weave styles to explore possibilities. The diversity of textures it brought out was a technical breakthrough for us.

Akami is a one-of-a-kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated.

Param did the tassels

Gurmail, the tailor

Narmohan Dada, master Eri silk pioneer

Mumma, Madhu, stitching supervision

midtoan.com, the photographer

Designed by Ritika