Double-sided natural dyed handspun Eri Silk shawl with Kalamkari from Sri Kalahasthi.

Kaariya brings together Eri silk and Kalamkari. Kalamkari is crafted in Sri Kalahasthi. The eri silk used in the double sided shawl is dyed with Lac and tea. 

Mora’s Kalamkaris are custom-made. The width and length of borders are pre-determined based on which motifs are set, drawn and dyed. The motifs contract and expand based on the varied dimensions, which lends a unique look to the existing workmanship. Mora Kalamkaris have always been a favourite. There is only one artisan I have worked with through all these years. He understands my mind and how much I don’t know. He understands that I do not look for perfection so he can relax. I choose the ease, adaptability and dynamic nature of this craft. This is where we connect. There are so many perfect Kalamkaris out there. They are so gorgeous. Mora Kalamkaris are shy, innocent and full of imperfections. That is why they become unique because they are imperfectly designed with my imperfect training. They can never speak of a honed craft. They are my expressions of a deep gentle admiration of the craft that I love to love. 

Eri Silk is a wild silk with a woolly fibrous filament hand spun into yarn, handwoven on traditional throw shuttle looms of Assam. These are woven on looms that are simplified older looms where the basic main frame is formed using four posts or pillars dug steadfastly into the mud ground. This Eri Silk is handspun by adept spinners of Assam without using Charkha. The journey from cocoons to handspun yarn involves a spinner performing a series of steps for the appropriate treatment of cocoons that can enable hand spinning of yarn. These steps have remained unchanged through generations of the hand-spinning culture of Assam. We have retained the indigenous steps without much alteration.  It is elegant in drape, and subtle in appearance and the texture of the fabric does not carry the obvious lustre that we typically associate with silk. Eri Silk being a protein fibre absorbs most natural dyes.

Kaariya is a one-of-a-kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated.

Kalamkari from A. Subbarao

Param did the beadwork 

Gurmail, the tailor

Narmohan Dada, the master Eri silk pioneer

Mumma, Madhu, technical supervision of stitching 

Midtoan.com, the photographer

Designed by Ritika