Natural dyed, handspun Eri silk shawl by dyers and weavers of Assam and Nagaland

Turkiyana is created with Eri Silk that is naturally dyed using lac, handspun, and woven on 2 different looms—throw shuttle and back strap loom in the rural settings of Assam and Nagaland. The weaving technique of Turkiyana was a comedy of design. Typically, weavers from Nagaland like to weave tight and stiff on back strap looms to ensure sturdy textiles that would last a long time. I had a design in mind where I wanted the textures of back strap loom weaving to appear as soft, loose nature of weaving to create more fluidity in the textile. I was called “stupid” for wanting a loose weave. Who wants a weave like that? Very bad design!

 We laughed and laughed because we couldn’t convince each other of our individual logic. Then, at last, I said, “Please weave my mistaken idea. I would really like my mistake to be woven. I am accountable if it goes bad.”

Turkiyana is a result of my mistaken design. They wove exactly the mistake I wanted to be woven. They still don’t like it. They still find it absurd. But they are also pleasantly surprised that I love it. They had a good laugh and called me “designer”. Now, whenever I want them to weave this kind of texture, we address it as “that designer one”. 

This way Turkiyana has my heart. I love these intentional mistakes. 

Eri silk yarn was carried from Kamrup district, Assam, to the remote regions of Nagaland. During the pandemic lockdown, this project of weaving hand-spun Eri Silk on back strap looms was conceived as a livelihood opportunity while also creating a training module to weave a texture of yarn new to the local weavers. Weaving on the back strap loom lends a unique slub texture to Eri silk. To achieve that texture, hand-spun Eri had to be laced with rice starch and then warped onto back strap looms. We played with loose and tight weave styles to explore possibilities. The diversity of textures it brought out was a technical breakthrough for us.

Turkiyana is a one-of-a-kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated.

Param did the tassels

Gurmail, the tailor

Narmohan Dada, master Eri silk pioneer

Mumma, Madhu, stitching supervision

midtoan.com, the photographer

Designed by Ritika