Pure fine pashmina Sari with Eri Silk 

I love making saris with Pashmina. Then, we don’t need a shawl and can just drape ourselves in this fine warmth protected from the winter chill. This is a winter sari. In summer, you will boil over as the Pashmina will keep you warm even through the winter’s outdoor get-togethers. Pashmini is warm, yet very light because it is very fine. To keep the focus on its gentle natural hue of wool, I decided to keep minimal borders. The borders are contrasts of Eri silk naturally dyed with Indigo and Turmeric. 

The Pallu invited a remarkable feat! The panelled part of the Pallu is woven with hand-spun turmeric, indigo and myrobalan dyed Eri silk yarn carried from Kamrup district Assam to remote regions of Nagaland. During the pandemic lockdown, this project of weaving hand-spun Eri Silk on back strap looms was conceived as a livelihood opportunity, while also creating a training module to weave a texture of yarn new to the local weavers. Weaving on the back strap loom lends a unique slub texture to Eri silk. To achieve that texture, hand-spun Eri had to be laced with rice starch and then warped onto back strap looms. We played with loose and tight weave styles to explore possibilities. The diversity of textures it brought out was a technical breakthrough for us.

We involved old grandmothers and young teenagers for this three-year project and made an interesting payment structure that involved multiple people working on a single shawl and having the freedom to earn at various loosely structured steps. That set some motivation in the group. It has been a slow project but a meaningful one because of the involvement of some key individuals who are motivated to work with their community and bring growth to their people.

Indigo, Myrobalan and Turmeric need to be worked with meticulous chemistry to craft the natural dyes of this subtle elegance.

Pashmini is a one-of-a-kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated. Pashmini comes with a blouse fabric designed to encourage Mora fireflies to bring their authentic spirit to the fabrication of blouse fit, usage of borders and edgings. The blouse worn by Mumma is not included.

Param did the tassels

Gurmail, the tailor

Pashmina by Muneer bhai’s family

Narmohan Dada, the master Eri silk pioneer

Mumma, Madhu, technical supervision of stitching 

Midtoan.com, the photographer

Designed by Ritika