Eri Silk sari highlighting the hand-embroidered patchwork

Boro is a Japanese technique of stitching together as patchwork anything that may need to be mended or given additional support from tearing apart. Sashiko is like the Kantha stitch, however Japanese use of thread size is different from Indian Kantha, which is what lends a totally unique aesthetic even though the technique of running the stitch is the same.

I reduced the Sashiko stitch thread size and chose a finer size. Also, I decided to reduce the sizing of the patchwork used in a typical Boro patch and make the form more intentional rather than emergent. 

Each textile fabric was carefully chosen by my mother to create the colour family I wished to achieve. This was achieved by segregating thousands of little pieces grouped together into individual colour families. 

Param did every single tiniest stitch by hand using Kantha/ Sashiko in a Boro adaptation of patchwork, stacking fabrics one on top of the other.

I call this sari Haazir because it reflects what my mother brings to Mora energy, the energy of being “haazir”, available, attentive and in quiet attendance. Whenever I turned around, my mother was Haazir.

Eri Silk is naturally dyed, handspun, and woven on a throw shuttle loom in rural Assam.Cowdung and Turmeric need to be worked with meticulous chemistry to craft the natural dyes of this subtle elegance.

Haazir is a one-of-a-kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated. Haazir comes with a blouse fabric designed to encourage Mora fireflies to bring their authentic spirit to the fabrication of blouse fit, usage of borders and edgings. The blouse worn by Mumma is not included. The blouse with this Sari is a hand-spun hand-woven Eri silk, the same as the base of the sari. 

Param made the patchwork & beadwork 

Gurmail, the tailor

Narmohan Dada, the master Eri silk pioneer

Mumma, Madhu, patchwork technical eyes and segregating hands

Midtoan.com, the photographer

Designed by Ritika