Natural dyed handspun Eri Silk shawl with Kanchipuram Zari Pallu

Ahoi is naturally dyed using Lac. It is a heart-stirring red, the laal that everyone seeks to believe is “definitely not naturally dyed”. While lac itself is a magical natural dye, its relationship with Eri silk is like a perfect complementary friendship. Each one accentuates the other. Eri Silk being a protein fibre absorbs most natural dyes. Eri silk while interacting with Lac develops a confidence of belonging. Like they know each other, accept each other and can navigate together. The gorgeous pink/peach hue on the border is created using Sappanwood. And the beige-appearing border layer is dyed with tea.

Eri Silk is a wild silk with a woolly fibrous filament hand spun into yarn, handwoven on traditional throw shuttle looms of Assam. These are woven on looms that are simplified older looms where the basic main frame is formed using four posts or pillars dug steadfastly into the mud ground. This Eri Silk is handspun by adept spinners of Assam without using Charkha. The journey from cocoons to handspun yarn involves a spinner performing a series of steps for the appropriate treatment of cocoons that can enable hand spinning of yarn. These steps have remained unchanged through generations of the hand-spinning culture of Assam. We have retained the indigenous steps without much alteration.

It is elegant in drape, and subtle in appearance and the texture of the fabric does not carry the obvious lustre that we typically associate with silk.

To this glory, I decided to introduce Kanchipuram Zari weaves.

Ahoi is a one-of-a-kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated. Ahoi comes with a blouse fabric designed to encourage Mora fireflies to bring their authentic spirit to the fabrication of blouse fit, usage of borders and edgings. The blouse worn by me is not included.

Param did the Tulsi beadwork 

Gurmail, the tailor

Narmohan Dada, the master Eri silk pioneer

Mumma, Madhu, technical supervision of stitching 

Midtoan.com, the photographer

Designed by Ritika