Choukha

MR23124
Home reared | Hand spun | Hand woven | Natural dyed | Eri Silk | Narrow shawl
Spoken for
The natural dyed orange with charcoal hues reminds me of the time spent near the fireplaces in the last decade. So many home in the remoteness and each one carried one commonality- the fireplace. It was their kitchen, meeting place, resting space. I carry some of the best memories of my travels around the fireplace, a choukha.



About Eri silk and natural dyeing

1) Home reared Eri silkworms make their cocoons. The rearer collects those cocoons and hands them over to the yarn spinner.

2) The yarn spinner boils (degumming), washes, flattens the cocoons into fibre cakes. The fibre cakes are then mounted on a light wood stick to start the hand spinning of this fibre based silk. No charkha, no mechanised equipment, just a gentle dance of hands twisting the yarn while pulling them from their condensed form in the cocoon. A stone weight spindle keeps turning as the spinner keeps twisting the fibre. When sufficient amount of yarn has been spun, it is rolled into hanks and sent to the weaver.

3) Weaving is primarily woman’s domain in Assam, where the traditional throw shuttle looms are mounted between four pillars dug solid into the flat mud ground. Eri silk’s hand spun fibre involves an intricate warping process. This delicately slub yarn is more or less irregular in size leading to a completely manual process of heddle-making and yarn joining. At no point, the weaver can loose their attention for gentleness while weaving this yarn.

If the yarn is dyed first then the woven fabric is ready at this stage. If the fabric is to be dyed directly, then after weaving, fabric is ready to be sent for the next stage that is dyeing.

Choukha is one of a kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated.

Buyer Empowerments

Intrinsic
Value
Wearable textile made with traditional spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques, that bring together the legacy of Eri silk of Assam.
Creative
Aspect
One of a kind wearable heirloom where Eri Silk is bound in an asymmetrical geometry.
Heft-Feel
Light
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. Okay for summers!
Longevity
Long-lasting making it a generational heirloom. Texture will grow with time. The shades of natural dye will go through natural alterations as anything made with nature should.
Care
Dry clean recommended. “Made to not be fragile”. Seasonal “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring.
State
Ready to wear
Soul
100% natural, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones. The shades will originally change with passage of time adding years to its organic life.
Drape
Striking, up-lifting, hugging-body texture.
Concerns
Addressed
Made in rural household. Solidarity with Eri Silk that is made in Assam. Standing up for the artisans of Assam who are losing opportunities to the commercial-privileged Eri silk producers of mainland India.
Weaves made by artisan at home in available time-supporting farming lifestyle. Direct connect with artisan.
Reverse pyramid model- Fair benefit to all makers and facilitators. No bargaining with artisans. Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment made with need-greed, human-nature balance.Made with intentional non-injury. Slow production-slow movement product. Made less, made ethically.
Has gone through no chemical processing. Has gone through no machinery or mechanised processing units
Well-being Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable, Climate conscious
Read more on Buyer Empowerments ->
Eri silk made with Narmohan Das, with creative guidelines from Mora, Assam.

Stitching by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.

Tassels by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Disclaimer:
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2023
designed by: MIDTOAN
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