Pragya
MR23012
Hand spun natural dyed Eri silk woven on back strap loom and throw shuttle loom | Shawl
Spoken for
The edges of the shawl are turmeric, indigo and cow dung dyed Eri Silk woven on throw shuttles loom of Assam.
The panelled part of the shawl is woven with hand spun turmeric, cow dung, lac, myrobalan and indigo dyed Eri silk yarn carried from Kamrup district Assam to remote regions of Nagaland. During pandemic, this project of weaving hand spun Eri Silk on back strap loom was conceived as a livelihood opportunity, while also creating a training module to weave a texture of yarn new to the local weavers. Weaving on back strap loom lends a unique slub texture to Eri silk. To achieve that texture, hand spun Eri had to be laced with rice starch and then warped on to back strap looms. We played with loose and tight weave style to explore possibilities. The diversity of textures it brought out was a technical breakthrough for us.
We involved old grandmothers and young teenagers for this three year project and made an interesting payment structure that involved multiple people to work on a single shawl and have the freedom to earn at various loosely structured steps. That set some motivation in the group. It was a slow project but a meaningful one because of the involvement of some key individuals who are motivated to work with their community and bring growth to their people.
I connect with this model instinctively. And I hope I can keep nurturing this and find a way to make creative livelihood options for weavers in remote regions.
Pragya is one of a kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated.
By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.
— Confucius
The panelled part of the shawl is woven with hand spun turmeric, cow dung, lac, myrobalan and indigo dyed Eri silk yarn carried from Kamrup district Assam to remote regions of Nagaland. During pandemic, this project of weaving hand spun Eri Silk on back strap loom was conceived as a livelihood opportunity, while also creating a training module to weave a texture of yarn new to the local weavers. Weaving on back strap loom lends a unique slub texture to Eri silk. To achieve that texture, hand spun Eri had to be laced with rice starch and then warped on to back strap looms. We played with loose and tight weave style to explore possibilities. The diversity of textures it brought out was a technical breakthrough for us.
We involved old grandmothers and young teenagers for this three year project and made an interesting payment structure that involved multiple people to work on a single shawl and have the freedom to earn at various loosely structured steps. That set some motivation in the group. It was a slow project but a meaningful one because of the involvement of some key individuals who are motivated to work with their community and bring growth to their people.
I connect with this model instinctively. And I hope I can keep nurturing this and find a way to make creative livelihood options for weavers in remote regions.
Pragya is one of a kind textile designed to highlight a unique coming together of various techniques and creativity of handcraft. This design will not be recreated.
By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.
— Confucius
Buyer Empowerments
Intrinsic
Value
Value
Wearable textile made with traditional spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques, that bring together the legacy of Eri silk of Assam.
Creative
Aspect
Aspect
One of a kind wearable heirloom where Eri Silk woven on throw shuttle loom and back strap loom are brought together.
Heft-Feel
Substantial
Weather/
Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. Perhaps good for nippy evenings too!
Longevity
Long-lasting making it a generational heirloom. Texture will grow with time. The shades of natural dye will go through natural alterations as anything made with nature should.
Care
Dry clean recommended. “Made to not be fragile”. Seasonal “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring.
State
Ready to wear
Soul
100% natural, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones. The shades will originally change with passage of time adding years to its organic life.
Drape
Elegant, comforting, joyful
Concerns
Addressed
Addressed
Made in rural household. Solidarity with Eri Silk that is made in Assam and Nagaland.
Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. Direct connect with artisan.
Reverse pyramid model- Fair benefit to all makers and facilitators. No bargaining with artisans. Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment made with need-greed, human-nature balance.Made with intentional non-injury. Slow production- slow movement product. Made less, made ethically.
Has gone through no chemical processing. Has gone through no machinery or mechanised processing units.
Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. Direct connect with artisan.
Reverse pyramid model- Fair benefit to all makers and facilitators. No bargaining with artisans. Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment made with need-greed, human-nature balance.Made with intentional non-injury. Slow production- slow movement product. Made less, made ethically.
Has gone through no chemical processing. Has gone through no machinery or mechanised processing units.
Well-being
Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable, Climate conscious
Eri silk yarn made with Narmohan Das, Assam.
Stitching by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Tassels by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Stitching by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Tassels by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Disclaimer:
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft
A celebration of humanness.
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft
A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2025
designed by: MIDTOAN