Exploring spectrum of natural dyeing
through Indigo - Tumeric- Hilika
Spoken for
While I am working with the natural dyes, I feel they have a way to introducing their natural alchemy to me. They turn my life into a science workshop where chemistry need not be studied as a subject, but by way of bringing out natural colours, science of natural chemistry reveals to me by trial and error. I am student of Science till the end if I do natural dyeing.

The primary shades that are created in this shawl are:

Indigo | derived from Indigofera Tinctoria

To get the adequate mix of Indigo dye, the dye vat goes through many days of fermentation using the pounded leaves of the plant. Once the dye is ready, the fabric is dipped in the vat. Depending upon the number of dips, the shades of Indigo can vary from lightest to deepest.


Eri Silk project villages border Meghalaya that is home to most colour-fast organic turmeric. We use this turmeric to dye our textiles that can vary from lightest hue of yellow to a deep mustard.

Myrobalan | Harad/Haritaki/Harda/Chebulic Myrobalan

To achieve deep charcoal shades, the wonder Myrobalan tree fruit is used. This resources is available abundantly in Assam, however the tricky part of this dye is purely in its tanin relationship with right acidity to achieve desirable colour fast shades. When combined with Indigo, this yields beautiful shades of charcoal-blue.

This is a two sided shawl. Both sides are collages of Natural dyed Eri silk.

One side is the Solid shade derived out of keeping same colour for both warp and weft. Other side is Double shade derived out of different colours for warp and weft.

This technical switch brings forth a creative change.

Buyer Empowerments

Wearable textile made with traditional spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques, that are slowly being abandoned in modern context. Hope of rejuvenation that a textile that has lasted the test of thousand of years, can still enthral the makers and wearer’s senses.
One of a kind wearable heirloom that brings together the diversity of natural dyeing.
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. More fit for cool to cold days.
Sturdy, long-lasting- “lifelong” in their words, making it a generational heirloom. Texture will grow with time.
Dry clean recommended. “Made to not be fragile”. Seasonal “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun.
Ready to wear
100% natural, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones. The shades will originally change with passage of time adding years to its organic life.
Made in rural household. Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. Direct connect with artisan. Reverse pyramid model- Fair benefit to all makers and facilitators. No bargaining with artisans. Mutual decision-making. No deadline/ pressure based work environment made with need-greed, human-nature balance.Made with intentional non-injury. Slow production- slow movement product. Made less, made ethically. Has gone through no chemical processing. Has gone through no machinery or mechanised processing units
Elegant, up-lifting, hugging-body texture.
Well-being Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable, Climate conscious
Eri silk is made under the supervision of Narmohan Das,
with creative guidelines from Mora.
Stitching by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN