Lahar लहर

Waves of Nagaland woven with cotton on back strap loom
Spoken for
Crest and trough
dots and dashes
dits and dahs
“0" and “1”
laghu (light) and guru (heavy)
Yin and yang
Presence and absence
Up and down

The essence of weaving can be seen through many everyday articles we use- light switches, computer keypad, piano, drums. It exists in our various essential actions- walking, lifting and dropping, speaking. It is inevitable through out thoughts, their appearance and disappearance. Any routine is a weave. “Or,” “And,” and “Not” is a weave. Each repetition of choice of 0s and 1s , presence and absence, lift and drop creates a wave. From the waves, appears the pattern of wave cycle.

In each cycle, the mystery of life is unfolded.

Sound waves, light waves, water waves, weave waves.

Woven on back strap loom by the weavers of Nagaland, with the waves of warp and weft calculation, some loose threads take shape of a defined pattern of wave cycle. Without waves, it would not have any relevance.

Even the hands and feet of the weaver move like waves. You can keep looking at them as you would keep looking at the waves of the ocean.
If this shawl were the ocean, then one day its water is deep blue. I used Malkha indigo dyes solid to represent the depth of blue. And the other day, it is soft haze of blue through the ivory froth of waves. I used natural ivory Eri Silk woven with Indigo dyed hand spun, handwoven Eri silk to represent that mellow blue. Both sides offer the spectrum of this ocean and its waves.

Wave after Wave, the pattern reveals.

Buyer Empowerments

Indigenous textile product that involves traditional handloom weaving of Nagaland is highlighted by Eri Silk of Assam and natural dyed cotton of Malkha India.
One of a kind wearable textile. I enjoyed highlighting the front and back ends of back strap loom as they reveal a different colour palette represented through the dual warp end characteristic to back strap looms. The weave motifs highlight the triangular geometry representing hills of Nagaland interpreted as coastal waves.
Moderate to substantial
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant- okay for summers to nippy evenings
Not fragile
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun
Ready to wear
Natural dyed Eri silk is hand spun, hand woven, natural dyed. hand Mill spun mercerised cotton yarn with Azo-free dyeing used for Naga weaves; Natural dyed Malkha cotton
Grassroots livelihood production. Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. In support of indigenous knowledge of Nagaland. Supporting community initiative of Malkha India.
Modern, “cool”, “favourite staple”, can double up as elegant formal or casual fun.
Eri Silk made with supervision of Narmohan Das.
Cotton yarn sourced from Salem, Tamil Nadu.
Weaves made with North East Network, Nagaland.
Solid fabric by Malkha India.
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Tassels by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN