Haldi

MR21007
Narrow shawl made with natural dyed, hand spun, hand woven Eri silk of Assam, combined with back strap loom weaves made in Nagaland.
Spoken for
This narrow shawl has two sides. Both sides represent distinct moods. The core textile is Eri Silk of Assam.

The turmeric dyed side of the shawl highlights the dyeing abilities of Assam, using turmeric from their hill neighbour, Meghalaya. The hill grown turmeric of Meghalaya, more specifically Khasi hills, are believed to be one of the least fugitive turmeric dye sources. With protein fibre’s property to absorb natural dyes most effectively, the turmeric shines through this eri silk in its natural vibrance. I combined the yellows with the natural dyed composition of green that involves indigo and turmeric. The deep tones of green are set against the natural ivory of Eri silk.

On the second side, I retained the natural ivory Eri silk to highlight weaves of Nagaland, woven on back strap loom. The geometry of this motif made possible with the technique of alternating warp, remains my classic favourite.



Nagaland has been bogged down with excessive use of synthetic fibres for the last two decades. It is indeed not possible to get good quality cotton yarn for back strap loom weaving in the local markets. Indigenous weaves woven with synthetic on ancient looms feel like a legacy of craft is being wasted on plastic-based yarns. So, I decided to invest in cotton yarn from Salem,Tamil Nadu. 

We dyed cotton yarn in many shades with Azo free dyes and brought 1300 Kgs to North East India. That yarn was used to create the traditional weaves of Nagaland crafted for this shawl.

Buyer Empowerments

Eri silk aspect of shawl
Intrinsic
Value
Wearable textile made with ancient spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques. Home- reared, Hand spun, hand woven following indigenous methodology.
Soul
100 % natural, Protein-based, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones.
Well-being properties: Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable.
Naga weaves aspect of shawl
Intrinsic
Value
Using indigenous textile motif and skill. Involves traditional back strap loom weaving
Soul
Mill spun mercerised cotton yarn with Azo-free dyeing
Combined Aspect of the shawl
Intrinsic
Value
Brings out some intentional geometry created through meticulous stitching blending fabrics of different weight and density.
Creative
Aspect
One of a kind wearable textile that compliments textile heritage of neighbouring states Assam and Nagaland. I find Eri silk and back strap loom textures an interesting blend.
Technical Aspect
Brings out some intentional geometry created through meticulous stitching blending fabrics of different weight and density.
Helf-Feel
Moderate
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. Should give warmth on a slightly nippy evening. Should also protect from blazing Sun.
Longevity
Not fragile. Even if Eri Silk wears out after much use, you may like to keep the weaves of Nagaland to re-purpose them. My Eri Silk dress has lasted a decade already with rough regular use.
Care
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. The dyes are completely natural. It will experience changes over years of use. That is how nature is. It changes.
State
Ready to wear
Human-Nature Concern
Made in rural household. Weaves made by artisan at home in available time-supporting farming lifestyle.
No bargaining with artisans. Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment.
Drape
Casual, best wrapped around the shoulders over a dress or kurta. Has a comfort fall.
Well-being Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable.
Eri Silk weaves made under supervision of Narmohan Das following the creative guidelines from mora
Naga weaves woven on cotton under supervision of North East Network
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab
Tassels: Madhu Mittal, Bathinda, Punjab
Disclaimer:
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN
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