Kauseya & Cina-patta

Wild Muga Ghicha with cultured Kanchipuram silk
Spoken for
This kalidaar is a celebration of Muga, the rarest known wild silk in the world. Muga is rare, because the original maker of the silk, the silk worm needs gentleness of clean air. The magic of nature unfolds when upon maturity, they begin to offer their delicate short-filament golden-hued silk to the world.

Muga silk represents regal. Royalty of Assam, the Ahom kingdom, celebrated Muga over generations evolving Muga hand spinning and weaving to its current state. The hand reeling process of multiple cocoons at the same time is no easy feat. The spinners from Assam have mastered this skill over generations.

I combined Muga Ghicha Kalidaar with a odhni made with Kanchipuram silk where the zari taar compliments the golden hue of muga.

It is neither a Muga mekhela chador. Nor a Kanchipuram or Banarasi sari. It is your kalidaar combining the beauty of both these silks. The form of Kalidaar lends elegance yet remains playful.

My imaginations kicks in and I visualise many creative drapes with the beautiful odhni.

I see a wedding when I see this.

A subtle elegant presence at the wedding.

Or an intimate roof top gathering of close ones together, with lights like fireflies and a fireplace in the centre, some poetry and music and small gold Balis that shimmer with the zari whenever fire decides to flicker!

This will not bring bling in the celebrations. But it will shine through silently.

The blouse fabric included in the ensemble is made of Muga fine yarn with bootis made with cotton.
The blouse fabric used in the photoshoot is not part of the ensemble.

Buyer Empowerments

Muga and Muga Ghicha silk in Kalidaar and blouse fabric
Wearable textile made with ancient spinning and weaving of Assam. Involves wild silk rearing, Hand spun, hand woven following indigenous methodology.
100 % natural, Protein- based, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones.
Weaving of Muga and Muga Ghicha done under supervision of Nang Dharmavati from Arunachal Pradesh, following the creative guidelines from mora. Hand spun Muga and Muga Ghicha yarn from Gogamukh, Assam.
Kanchipuram aspect of the Kalidaar
Involves traditional handloom weaving of Kanchipuram using traditional motifs with mulberry silk and zari
Yarn is produced from cocoons reared in Sericulture units for mulberry silk. Zari is sourced from Zari thread makers. Source of yarn dye unknown to the artisan.
Weaves made at a weaving cluster in Kanchipuram
The combined aspects of the Kalidaar
One of a kind wearable textile that brings together a wild silk from Assam, North East India with a mulberry silk from Kanchipuram, South India. Their textures complimented each other and I felt the two separate geographies hold potential to come together artistically.
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. Also good for early winters.
Not fragile. (Fabrics detachable without much effort if future demands choice of up-cycling or alteration).
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. One may want to be more gentle with the woven zari threads of Kanchipuram aspect of the Kalidaar.
Ready to wear
Made in rural household- grassroots production. Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. No bargaining with artisans. Mutual decision-making. No deadline/ pressure based work environment. Use of natural fibres.
Formal, Elegant, Good for weddings or for brides who like to make a subtle statement, traditional, festive without being loud.
Well-being Properties
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable.
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork: Mamta, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2024
designed by: MIDTOAN