Stinging nettle and Hemp have been archaeologically discovered to be Neolithic textiles of humans. Both are plant fibre based textiles extracted from the stem of the plants. Cannabis plant is used for making textiles that we call Hemp; and varieties of Nettles and stinging nettles for making textiles that we refer to in various local dialects as Thebvo or Allo etc. Very early on, in the history of humankind, these textiles established themselves in the lifestyle for diverse usability, sturdiness, longevity and access to raw material. Both plant fibres are naturally and abundantly growing weed. The more they are harvested appropriately, the more they abound nature with their abundance. Twisting them into ropes and twines was the first usage of these textiles by evolving humans. With the evolution to weaving as their tool, these were without doubt, some of the earliest textiles humans spun into yarn using drop-weight spindle and then weaving on back strap looms.

In this shawl, I have brought together both Thebvo (stinging nettle textiles of Nagaland), Himalayan traditional Hemp with Eri Silk of Assam. I wanted to also highlight the journey of human from foraged plant fibres to beginning of home rearing of silkworms, sheep. For this, the subtle non-glossy nature of Eri silk felt most suitable. The silkworms are reared at home with intentional non-injury. This tradition too has passed the test of time, even though commercially produced silks from sericulture units flood the market.

The seekers will find the home-bred and jungle foraged.

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These textiles have survived thousands of years of human evolution. Lack of “development” was the key reason to protect these communities from becoming standardised and keeping the context of these early textiles still in use. In the last couple of decades, this ancient context is shifting to modern, leading to new choices that are unable to sustain the labour intensive process that is required for making these textiles unless they are appropriately monetised. In modern society, the price one pays for keeping the old traditions alive is a construct of this very modern society, called Money. Without encouraging monetary benefits, the communities are slowly letting go off their ancient legacy.

A fear in my heart sprouts, and with that, a wish and a motivation.

These textiles are like roots of our ancient past. If we keep them, we may feel more grounding. Letting them go, may make us feel loss of our connect to our past, to our growth, to our evolution, to our common ancestry.

This is my attempt of settling my own heart by connecting to the ancient roots of Neolithic textiles. And perhaps bridge the growing divide.