Idu Mishmi and Dimasa community weaves with natural dyed Eri silk
Spoken for

Idu Mishmi indigenous community of Arunachal Pradesh have an old saying,

"tai koyeen reeyee pruin muin" which defines the role of a good Idu woman.

Tai- nurturing the family

Koyeen- should be able to cook for a large gathering and should know how to cook in large vessels on fire.

Reeyee- weaving

Pruin- taking care of the pigs and cattle

Muin- resource management, saving and keeping stock of accounts

While reflecting the simplicity of the expectation from a woman of this animist ethnic society, it also reflects the hardworking nature of their everyday life. Living in close proximity with Idu women, I realised that their willingness to take responsibility comes from a strong dedication to their community life. This strength derived from close community living is a result of years of collective protection from the neighbouring tribes. They walk the jungles with their Dao (local machete), bring nutrition to their families by foraging edible leaves, do appropriate meat storage and distribution, collect dry wood and twigs, tend to the animals that are their main wealth, and make clothes for their family.

Emerging from this lifestyle, are these beautiful weaves describing the life of an Idu woman and what she sees around her.

Idu Yaku Kesha Mitando

Idu female very beautiful!

This sari takes the context of original indigenous weaves of Idu Mishmi tribe and puts it in harmony with hand spun, hand woven natural dyed Eri silk of Assam through an execution of asymmetrical patchwork.

Dimasa indigenous weaves in the pallu puts the final signature on the sari just before the completion of this canvas!

With the help of Anjite Menjo, I got an opportunity to work with weavers of Roing, Abali, Hunli, Brinli and Dambuk, involving Anjite’s extended family, as well as expert weavers like Akena Mimi from Brinli/hunli and Adele from Abali during awareness drive on use of cotton instead of synthetic yarns. All the Idu Mishmi weaves in the collection are made with pure cotton.

This adaptation is a tribute to one of rarest indigenous communities of Arunachal Pradesh, still practicing indigenous belief system of nature worship and Shamanism. Idu Mishmi language has been listed as “definitely endangered” by UNESCO, so I stand in support of this ancient language in repeating these words to you all in the form of names of various weave motifs.

Buyer Empowerments

Idu Mishmi and Dimasa weaves aspect of sari
Wearable textile made with ancient spinning, weaving and dyeing techniques. Home- reared, Hand spun, hand woven following indigenous methodology of Assam
Protein base. 100 % natural, Protein- based, organic, hand-made, from nature-back to nature. Something to grow old with and then pass it on to loved ones.
Thermal insulation, Moisture absorption, UV protective, completely bio-degradable.
Idu Mishmi and Dimasa weaves aspect of sari
Wearable textile made with indigenous weaves of Idu Mishmi and Dimasa tribes that are slowly losing everyday context in the community. They are being used only during festivals now and also adapting many modifications in design inspired by exposure to modern life. This sari is an attempt to highlight original weaving motifs made on back strap loom, while creating a global form of wearability without cutting the weaves into garment.
Cellulose base. Mill spun mercerised cotton yarn with Azo-free dyeing .
The combined aspects of the sari
One of a kind wearable heirloom that brings together indigenous weaves of Arunachal Pradesh and Assam as my attempt of ethnographic documentation through design. Eri silk of natural dyes brings a subtle harmony with the weaves giving them the right platform to express themselves.
Moderate to substantial
Weather/ Mood
Pleasant-not warm not cold. Should give warmth on a slightly nippy evening. Should also protect from blazing Sun.
Not fragile. Even if Eri Silk wears out after many years of use, you may want to keep the weaves of Idu Mishmi to re-purpose them.
Dry Clean only; Needs “Airing” in shadow, not direct sun. Do not wring. Occasional starch finish will lift up the form.
Sari is ready to wear. All saris come with blouse fabric(s). No fall/ beading required. The blouse used in photoshoot is for representation only and may not be the same blouse available with the sari. The blouse fabric given with the sari will be more in alignment with the aesthetics intended.
Elegant. Heirloom. Has good gravity drape. Modern. Statement piece that can double up as elegant formal or casual fun.
Made in rural household.
Weaves made by artisan at home in available time- supporting farming lifestyle. 
In support of indigenous knowledge of Arunachal Pradesh and Assam.
No bargaining with artisans.
Mutual decision-making.
No deadline/ pressure based work environment.
Solidarity with ancient back strap loom weaving culture.
Eri Silk weaves made with Narmohan Das, Kamrup, Assam.
Idu Mishmi weaving with support from Anjite Menjo, Arunachal Pradesh.
Dimasa weaving done by Molina, under supervision of Aityree, Assam.
Cotton yarn sourced from Salem, Tamil Nadu.
Stitched by Gurmel Singh, Jalalabad, Punjab.
Beadwork by Param, Bathinda, Punjab.
Imperfections in the weaves reflect handmade
Irregularity in the dyes reflect natural process
Innocent spots in the textiles reflect being homemade
A work of nature cannot be sterile and error-free
A choice to still buy what we make is a step
Towards supporting original culture
Of people
Of nature
Of craft

A celebration of humanness.
Mora Collective 2023
designed by: MIDTOAN